Mulch is used as a protective cover placed over your garden soil to retain moisture, reduce erosion, provide nutrients, and suppress weed growth and seed germination.
A good approximation is that 1 cubic yard of mulch will cover a 10’x10′ area, 3″ thick.
Mulch is usually applied towards the beginning of the growing season, and is often reapplied as necessary. It serves initially to warm the soil by helping it retain heat which is lost during the night. This allows early seeding and transplanting of certain crops, and encourages faster growth. As the season progresses, mulch stabilizes the soil temperature and moisture, and prevents sunlight from germinating weed seeds[/toggle_content] [toggle_content title=”The grass is very thin under my trees. How can I improve the situation?”]
Grass can be thin under trees because the trees are using water that the grass needs but the main problem is from the lack of light in the shade. This is a result of the roots of the trees competing with the grass for water and nutrients, leaving the grass with an inadequate supply of each. Grass really requires a period of direct sunlight in order to properly grow. Pruning the trees to let more light in will help as will planting a more shade tolerant grass such as Creeping Red Fescue.
Remember, pruning trees, planting shade resistant grass, or planting ground cover such as pachysandra can help the situation.[/toggle_content] [toggle_content title=”Moles seem to be taking over my lawn. What can I do about them?”]
Mole management can be very difficult. Most of the “home remedies”, such as juicy fruit gum, mothballs, sonic noisemakers, will not help to remedy the situation. Plenty of purported remedies are available, but experts say there’s only one surefire way to stop the tunneling animals from tearing up your yard.
An average mole, though weighing just 5 or 6 ounces, can dig up to 18 feet per hour through the less-dense upper soil of a lawn. And while moles don’t actually eat plant bulbs, as many homeowners think, the damage they can do is very real: Their tunneling in pursuit of insects and worms detaches the roots of grass, exposes soil so that weeds can root and, of course, creates the infamous molehills and lumpy lawns.
All those tunnels in your lawn are likely caused by only one or maybe two moles because they’re unsociable creatures who don’t share space.
The experts agree. There is only one sure fire way of getting rid of moles, trapping! And it’s just about the only method that provides clear evidence you got the job done. Moles feed primarily on earthworms so efforts to control grubs have little effect on mole population. To find an active run, stomp down on a few raised areas of your yard. The ones that pop back up over the next 24 hours will be the active ones. Set your traps there.
Another method is to just wait them out. A mole brings real benefit to a lawn, if you can stand it; a typical animal eats 45 to 50 pounds of insects and worms annually, according to one study. And the grasses and excrement it leaves underground are good for the soil.
Every time you push a tunnel down, (the mole will) push it back up, but dig deeper. Do that long enough and frequently enough, and eventually the tunnels won’t show. In other words, you can live with them. Some suggest raking out – not stomping down – molehills so that the mole doesn’t feel the need to push it right back up.[/toggle_content] [toggle_content title=”Weeds are beginning to take over my lawn. How do I kill them?”]
Weed control plays an important role in a lush lawn. If weeds are taking over your lawn, they need immediate attention. However, you must be familiar with the types of weeds that are overtaking your lawn in order to implement appropriate action.
Some weeds do not respond well to particular herbicides, and certain chemicals can harm the healthy sections of your lawn. The most important thing is that you address lawn weeds without delay before the problem worsens.
First identify which types of weeds you have and then call us for the most effective herbicide for your lawn.
Herbicides come in:
Both pre and post-emergent can be applied by a homeowner with the right equipment.
Liquid products require a sprayer and can be applied over the entire lawn or spot sprayed onto individual areas or weeds.
Granular herbicides are impregnated onto fertilizer to provide a Weed and Feed sytem. An example would be to apply fertilizer containing a crabgrass herbicide before the crabgrass emerges as part of a pre-emergent system. This will prevent the crabgrass from coming up.
After weeds have emerged, typically broadleaf weeds such as chickweed, clover, and dandelion, a fertilizer containing a post-emergent herbicide can be applied to kill the weeds. This must be done when the grass is wet such as after a rain or a heavy dew.
Here are some tips that will help you eliminate weeds and go easy on your wallet.
- Mow your yard to the ideal height (see chart below)
Each type of grass has an ideal cutting height for good health and strong growth. Don’t cut lower than that height, and cut before it gets too long and the grass will usually out-compete weeds as long as it’s also fertilized and watered properly. Longer grass helps prevent weeds in a couple of different ways. The taller growth shades the ground, keeping it cooler and retarding weed seed germination. And once weed seeds sprout, they don’t have as much sunlight as they need for hardy growth.
- Don’t fight weeds where grass won’t grow
Mulch flower beds and around trees and shady areas where grass doesn’t grow well anyway.
Bent grass: ¼ to ¾ in.
Chewing hard or red fescue: 1-½ to 2-½ in.
Tall fescue: 1-½ to 3 in.
Kentucky bluegrass: 1-½ to 3 in.
Perennial ryegrass -1-½ to 3 in.
Frequency of watering depends on many factors including soil type, grass type, temperature, and evaporation rate. With so many factors to consider it is usually best left to the homeowner to determine what works in their situation.
Here are some general rules of thumb:
- The goal for most lawns is 1″ per week, and it is best if that is delivered “all at once” instead of over several days. You can tell when your grass is “thirsty” and in need of water… When it starts to wilt OR When the soil is dry.
- Grass does not require daily, weekly or monthly watering. This is not to say you should never water the lawn, but when you do, you should water deeply and infrequently.
- During periods of hot weather and drought you will most likely need to turn on the sprinkler system to supply some water to the lawn that nature does not supply. But, it is best to water when the grass and lawn needs it and when watering, remember… give it a very thorough soaking.
Overseeded grass seed must be allowed to sprout and be actively growing before the application of a pre-emergent herbicide. A good rule of thumb is that after the new grass is tall enough to mow it is large enough to withstand herbicide application.The majority of pre-emergents prevent germination for all types of seeds. Some newer, selective pre-emergents can be used at the time of seeding to prevent weed seed germination and allow grass seed germination.
Remember that pre-emergents should be put down in the Spring before seeds begin to germinate. If you must overseed in the spring, look for a product called, Tupersan. Unlike other pre-emergent herbicides, Tupersan will not damage germinating lawn grass seed. But if you’re committed to staying away from chemicals altogether in your spring grass care, postpone overseeding until Fall.[/toggle_content] [toggle_content title=”What variety of grass seed are available?”]
Petite Tall Fescue
High-quality, all around grass for lawns and athletic fields, has a fine blade and withstands the heat and direct sunlight very well